Poisoned for Pretty

Stephanie Jean
Jun 14
6 min read

“The most disrespected person in America is the Black woman. The most unprotected person in America is the Black woman. The most neglected person in America is the Black woman.”

— Malcolm X

Intro: A Hidden Health Crisis

Hair is not an exception. Recent studies have uncovered troubling links between hair products and long-term health risks. These risks come from synthetic hair, relaxer, perm, texturizer, and more. Many commonly used hair products in the black community are vastly underregulated and, until recently, insufficiently studied. Because of this lack of oversight, these products often contain harmful ingredients, including known carcinogens, that can impact not just hair health but overall well-being. For decades, the beauty industry has prioritized profit over safety, leaving Black consumers especially vulnerable to exposure. It’s time to have a deeper conversation about what we’re putting on our scalps and how we can protect ourselves moving forward.

What is a Carcinogen?

Carcinogens are substances that may increase your risk of cancer. There are more than 100 known carcinogens. Carcinogens may be physical, such as ultraviolet rays from the sun; chemical, like asbestos; or biological, such as infections caused by certain viruses. (Clinic) Simply coming into contact with a carcinogen doesn’t mean you’ll develop cancer, but long-term exposure can increase your risk. Scientists tested 10 of the most popular synthetic braiding hair products on the market, from brands including Magic Fingers, Sassy Collection, Sensationnel, Shake-N-Go, and others. Carcinogens were detected in all of them. (Jackson)

As young Black boys and girls, many of us were taught—directly or indirectly—to conform to white Western beauty standards. We were conditioned to see our natural hair as “wild” or unkempt, and encouraged to shrink ourselves, starting with our appearance. This led to countless hours spent in salon chairs or kitchens, chemically relaxing or texturizing our hair—a process so normalized it earned the nickname “creamy crack.” Black beauty standards have long been shaped by a complex interplay of historical, cultural, and societal pressures. From the impact of European colonialism to the legacy of slavery, these forces have made self-expression a battleground. Chemical relaxers, introduced in the early 20th century, were marketed as tools of transformation—ways to tame our curls and gain acceptance in a world that often rejected our natural beauty.

But that acceptance has come at a cost. In our efforts to assimilate, we’ve been pressured to use products and adopt styles that, while seen as more “palatable,” are often harmful to our health, but as long as we get that likeness, it’s okay….right? WRONG! The pursuit of this likeness has left many exposed to toxic ingredients, without warning, without regulation, and without real choice.

The Most Dangerous Ingredients in Hair Care

Let’s break down some of the most commonly used products in our community that carry hidden risks:

Formaldehyde: Often used in hair straightening products, it can cause skin irritation and respiratory issues.
Sulfates: These are cleaning agents that can strip hair of its natural oils, leading to dryness and damage.
Parabens: Used as preservatives, they can cause skin irritation and have been linked to hormonal disruptions.
Phthalates: Often found in fragrances, they can cause allergic reactions and have been associated with various health concerns.
Alcohol: While not always harmful, certain types can dry out hair and scalp, leading to damage.
Benzene: Detected in some dry shampoos and aerosol products. Long-term exposure is linked to leukemia and other blood disorders.
Naphthalene: Found in some hair dyes and synthetic fragrances, this chemical is associated with respiratory problems and has shown carcinogenic effects in animal studies.
Methylene Chloride: Banned in some regions, this solvent can be toxic when inhaled and is linked to neurological damage and cancer.
Styrene: Often used in synthetic fragrance and packaging, styrene is classified as a possible human carcinogen and can cause irritation and central nervous system effects.
Animal Fat (Tallow): Sometimes used as a conditioning agent, animal fat can clog pores on the scalp and cause buildup, especially when not properly formulated for textured hair.
Mineral Oil: Common ingredient in many hair greases, mineral oil coats the hair but doesn’t penetrate it, often leading to buildup and blocked moisture absorption, especially on natural or curly hair types.

Many of these products are commonly found in any styling product you can think of. Synthetic hair, hair grease, sprays, conditioners, shampoos, edge control, mousse, moisturizers, creams, relaxers, texturizers, hair dyes, wig glues, bonding agents, and serums. It's best to choose products that are free from these chemicals to minimize any potential harm while braiding hair.

How to Protect Yourself: Safer Hair Product Tips

Labels to look for when choosing safer hair products:

Sulfate-Free
Paraben- Free
Phthalate-Free
Formaldehyde-Free
Alcohol-Free
Fragrance-Free or Naturally Scented
Petroleum-Free / Mineral Oil-Free
Tallow-Free or Vegan
Benzene-Free / No Aerosols
Clean Beauty

Certifications to Look For:

EWG Verified – Products vetted by the Environmental Working Group for ingredient safety
Leaping Bunny or Cruelty-Free – While not ingredient-focused, these brands often use cleaner formulas
Vegan Certified – Avoids animal fats like tallow
USDA Organic – Indicates a higher standard for ingredient sourcing (though not necessarily chemical-free)

When in doubt, flip the bottle over. The front can say anything, but the ingredients list doesn’t lie.

The Long-Term Health Effects

The dangers of these products go far beyond surface-level damage. A growing body of research shows that long-term exposure to harmful ingredients disproportionately impacts Black women’s health, from hormonal disruption to life-threatening illnesses. Studies have linked hair product use to an increased risk of hormone-related cancers, such as breast and uterine cancer. Spray products, in particular, can exacerbate asthma due to the presence of irritants like perfumes and phthalates. A robust study by Dr. Tamarra James-Todd, a professor at Harvard’s T.H. Chan School of Public Health, found that straighteners and other hair products marketed to Black girls and women often contain endocrine-disrupting chemicals. These substances are associated with early onset of menstruation and a host of reproductive health issues, including uterine fibroids, preterm birth, infertility, and cancers of the breast, ovaries, and uterus. Many of these hormone-related conditions occur more frequently among Black women, who also face a 28% higher death rate from breast cancer compared to white women. (Villarosa)

What About Stylists and Braiders?

These risks aren’t limited to just the individuals using the products; they extend to salon workers, braiders, and entire communities. Hairstylists and braiders are regularly exposed to harmful chemicals through both touch and the air they breathe.

Think about it: they handle hair all day, then grab a bite to eat—it’s hand-to-mouth exposure, and those chemicals enter the body that way.

Studies have also found that these chemicals linger in the air long after a hair session ends. In fact, a person can inhale between 1 to 17 milligrams of potentially harmful substances during just one hair care session at home.

Local Impact in Greater Boston

To explore the full scope of how these chemicals disproportionately impact Black communities, take a closer look at this interactive StoryMap diving into racial segregation within Greater Boston and how it correlates to hair product safety: Click Here.

Safer Product Alternatives We Love

Some safer alternatives to help protect yourself from these risks are plant-derived products. Here are links to some of our faves:

Braiding Hair:

Products:

Final Thoughts

In his 2009 documentary “Good Hair,” Chris Rock showed an aluminum soda can submerged in a beaker of sodium hydroxide, AKA lye, which was until recently a main ingredient in relaxers. After four hours, it had disintegrated. In the 2022 Hulu series “The Hair Tales,” Oprah Winfrey recalled leaving a salon with a severely burned scalp after a relaxer treatment in 1977. Every time she combed or washed her hair, clumps of it fell out.

“The most disrespected person in America is the Black woman.” This is especially true when it comes to the beauty industry, where harmful chemicals in hair products have long been used without regulation, putting Black women’s health at risk. These chemicals, linked to cancers, infertility, and other health issues, not only affect the users but also those who work with these products daily.

But it’s not too late to make a change. By choosing safer, plant-based products and being mindful of what we put on our hair and skin, we can protect our health and take control of the beauty standards placed upon us. We deserve better products, better safety, and a healthier future.

Let’s make informed choices, reclaim our beauty, and demand safer products for ourselves and future generations.

References

Clinic, Cleveland. “Carcinogens: What They Are and Common Types.” Cleveland Clinic, 20 June 2023, my.clevelandclinic.org/health/articles/25081-carcinogens. Accessed 8 Apr. 2025.
“Fashion and Beauty Standards | History of Black Women in America Class Notes | Fiveable.” Fiveable, 2018, fiveable.me/history-black-women-in-america/unit-9/fashion-beauty-standards/study-guide/S2xYhLDhchGHJRyS. Accessed 8 Apr. 2025.
Harvard. “Environmental Racism in Personal Care Products.” ArcGIS StoryMaps, Esri, 31 May 2021, storymaps.arcgis.com/stories/06cd9131264a454f86d9124faa3a90f3. Accessed 8 Apr. 2025.
Jackson, Leigh-Ann. “Dangerous Chemicals Were Detected in 100% of the Braiding Hair We Tested.” Consumer Reports, 27 Feb. 2025, www.consumerreports.org/health/wigs-hair-extensions/dangerous-chemicals-detected-in-braiding-hair-cr-tested-a4850978424/. Accessed 8 Apr. 2025.
“Study: Hair Care Product Chemicals Can Linger in the Air in Surprising Amounts.” News, 27 Nov. 2023, www.purdue.edu/newsroom/2023/Q4/study-hair-care-product-chemicals-can-linger-in-the-air-in-surprising-amounts/. Accessed 8 Apr. 2025.
“Synthetic Braiding Hair Used by Black Women Contain Dangerous Chemicals | Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health.” Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health, HSPH, 5 Mar. 2025, hsph.harvard.edu/news/synthetic-braiding-hair-used-by-black-women-contain-dangerous-chemicals/#:~:text=Synthetic%20braiding%20hair%20used%20by%20Black%20women%20contain%20dangerous%20chemicals,-By&text=A%20host%20of%20dangerous%20chemicals,were%20detailed%20in%20a%20Feb. Accessed 8 Apr. 2025.
Thomas, Chrystal G. “Carcinogenic Materials in Synthetic Braids: An Unrecognized Risk of Hair Products for Black Women.” The Lancet Regional Health - Americas, vol. 22, 26 May 2023, pp. 100517–100517, pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10238826/, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.lana.2023.100517. Accessed 8 Apr. 2025.
Villarosa, Linda. “The Disturbing Truth about Hair Relaxers.” The New York Times, 13 June 2024, www.nytimes.com/2024/06/13/magazine/hair-relaxers-cancer-risk.html.

By: Stephanie Jean

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